As the new dirty burger craze goes, Meat Liquor and its many
off shoots is the daddy. Queues around the block, legions of fans, many, many
copy-cats, however, up to this point I had never braved the momentous queue by
Debenhams. However now that it has stretched its empire to the East I thought
it appropriate to break the burger cherry.
Based in an old Mission just off Hoxton Square, the large
restaurant keeps many of the original features of the Mission which sit happily
next to the neo-gothic decoration and stripped back interiors. The shocking
thing on arrival at Meat Mission was that there was no queue. Obviously we
couldn’t take our seats instantly, that would be mental, but we did get the
chance to have some civilised cocktails at the bar. This is a world away from
shivering outside whilst ravaged shoppers gaze at you in a confused manner.
After only 15 minutes of relaxing with a decent man cocktail (whisky) and an sugary
girl cocktail (minty), we took our bench.
The shared benches are very much part
of the ‘get stuck in with a dirty meat’ type of atmos but the shared
environment creates a buzz to the restaurant - I have had much more awkward times
in ‘posh’ places when they sit you 2 cm away from the next table.
The menu is obviously beef heavy. I opted for a ‘pastrami
and swiss’ (vedict to follow) my girlfriend being a vegetarian, went for the
veggy burger, this was a Halloumi and Mushroom burger, this was good, I have
known vegetarians to avoid places when they see the words burger and goat
cheese in the same sentence. However, more to note was the fact I also opted
for a plate of Monkey Fingers. These are strips of chicken in batter covered
with hot sauce with a blue cheese dip. The first portion was slightly cold and
so I asked them to be heated up. Not only did they apologetically take them back
but they took it off the bill without asking, a friendly touch which was reflective of the service throughout. They were
addictive and came in a mini monkey mountain, initially perturbed that this was
going to be far too much animal for me – it pains me to leave food like this - the temptation of the chicken was too much for
my girlfriend who then ate several pieces of chicken and broke 4 years of
veggyness. Ha.
There should be a bell to ring in such circumstances or
stocks of some sort made out of cow carcasses – to passively break a vegetarian
is quite a feat. And one which should be proudly recognised. The portions are
big, a burger and ‘bit and pieces’ is enough for two people, otherwise expect
to hit the meat sweats whilst still eating. I did not help the consumption
quantity by opting for one of their 3 pint jug bottles of cider – not that I wanted 3
pints but the prices are not cheap but the more you buy on beer and cider the
cheaper it gets so in a weird way the vat made total sense.
Burger Verdict – very good. It held together well and was
eatable in hand (which I see as important) and the cheese, pastrami and
sauerkraut were great accompaniants. The burger itself was beefy and robust and
tasted of actual beef (also important!). I wouldn’t say it is had the moreish
quality of the Lucky Chip burgers which they knock out down at the Sebright
Arms but this burger definitely justifies the Meat chain’s (can we call it that
yet?) reputation and will see it march on. At the end of the day it is good
food, well priced (though booze isn’t as cheap) and a great atmosphere. Go
before it gets busy.
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