White Rabbit, Dalston, www.whiterabbitdalston.com

I am about to be effusive. Apologies. One of my first reviews was of Mr Buckleys on Hackney Road. Summary: small, small plates, big prices. Last night I went to what Mr Buckleys was obviously modelled on, White Rabbit. I am glad I went to Mr Buckleys first because had I been made to compare it to White Rabbit it would have been given a Winner style savaging.

So White Rabbit is set just off Kingsland Road on a side street which is dotted with various cocktail bars and art boutiques. By the furious building activity which was going on at 11pm it seems there will be a few more appearing soon.

The restaurant is light and open, all exposed wood and mismatched chairs. This style is obviously de rigour East at the moment, however, it has dabbled in a bit of white paint which gives it a much cleaner look than most others. It has a good cocktail list and I am not sure whisky lovers would approve of a 12 year old malt being mixed with amaretto but god damn it, it tasted good.

The menu was a mixture of small plates from the stove or their huge wood burning oven. We chose far too many dishes, still scarred from Buckleys experience and ended up getting the food sweats by the end. There were some really clever dishes, including butternut squash with smoked yoghurt with ash and honeycomb. I am not sure how you smoke yoghurt, but if any vegetarians fancy finding out what they are missing they need to try it. This small plate for a v reasonable £7 could have easily done for a main. I elected for ox cheek with pearl barley which was a huge hunk of meat which scared the vegetarian at the table. Always a good thing. The other highlight was the waffles – imagine McCoy’s crisps in 3D – they were lattice potatoes deep fried and crispy like crisps but still chunky and potatoey. Two waitresses tried to explain how they made them but I still didn’t get it, I just knew I should pity the most junior person in the kitchen. Other dishes included braised chicory with Colten Basset cheese which was punchy and some crab cakes which were sound. Every dish was a winner and there were at least 10 more that I would have been more than happy to try. The only criticism I could level against this place is the unisex toilets. No, just no, the world is still not ready I am afraid….

 This is probably the best place I have eaten in this neck of the woods in terms of a ‘proper’ restaurant with good value for money and food. Winner all round.