The Marksman is situated on the corner of Hackney Road
and Horatio Street – which explains the reference to the dastardly French
sniper who took down Nelson. Although I prefer to think of it as an aggressive
ploy designed to intimidate the pub 20 metres down the road called the Nelson’s
Head. This could potentially be the new Tesco v Sainsbury's market war –
although I wouldn’t expect 2p shots of vodka anytime soon, just simmering beef.
I have been here a couple of times in the last few weeks
which given the time of year and the fact that it is 30 metres from my house
isn’t that surprising. However, fortunately its convenient location is coupled
with the fact that the food here is very good, and the atmosphere also normally
buzzing. It is quite small and if you aren’t booking a table I reckon you have
a 50/50 chance of being able to sit down. Even when sat down you should expect
to be knocked and banged as people squeeze through the pub, but it makes for a good atmosphere with a nice mix of new and old locals.
The menu on a Sunday includes classic lunches for around
the £14 mark (no veggy) or a range of other dishes such as mussels, burgers,
fish and chips - classic pub items all for around the 10-12 mark (except the
mussels were a v reasonable £7.50 and could easily be a main). I opted for the
cheeseburger which was very good. I am always pleased when a pub actually asks
you how you want it cooked despite it being 8pm and rammed on a Sunday night.
It came with an aioli that had such a garlic punch you should really
refrain after a few dips, but I chose to practically drink it instead. My
girlfriend went for veggy soup which had a smoky parsnip taste which resembled
bacon and came with what I suspect was E5 bakehouse sourdough which was coated
in what can only be described as buttery olive oil, the chef has somehow mixed
the two bread competitors and come up with a dream taste, and I am sure the oil
cancels out the buttery heart attacks. When a meal's highlights are the dips
and bread you know a restaurant is concentrating on the details. Given it was
packed I suspect many others recognise this as well.
Just a quick note about the other occasion I visited in
which I had breakfast which was a simple but excellent and cheap brunch. A
bloody mary came in a pint with a foot of celery to make me feel healthy. The
English breakfast was huge and came with a nice touch of two very buttery
pieces of farmhouse toast (ie, an inch thick), one white and one brown. The
eggs benedict were much better than some of vinagery samples I have had
recently and came with proper home cooked ham. Again the prices were friendly
and the service was great – we accidently got a plate of bacon which they gave
us for free because of a misunderstanding. Free bacon and pints of BM – THE
DREAM.
In all the Marksmen definitely has put in place a decent
kitchen and the meals are consistently good quality and value – its nearest pub
food competitor The Royal Oak charges £15 for fish and chips* – this is
definitely quietly one of the best traditional pub food places around the
Hackney Road area – just make sure you book in advance.
The positiveness of this review is also helped by the
fact that a week in Cardiff showed most pubs outside London are now two meals
for ten quid brewers fayre type places, thank fuck we still have ropey little
places like this serving quality food in London.
*RIDIC
